Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Last couple of days

As my final day approaches, I ask myself what my next step will be. I have enjoyed my time here despite the obvious difficulties (no running water)and my adventurous spirit has yet to wane. I still spin the globe and dream about life in other places. I still feel nostalgia for places I've never been, and I still have a potent passion to work in the non-profit sector. I know that if I can survive three months here with the language barriers, cultural differences, poorer lifestyle and enjoy every minute of it, I can survive anywhere. My experiences have taught me so much. I have witnesses how good organizations operate, and how bad organizations falter. I learned how important oversight is, the importance of presenting one self as a leader, and the difficulties of makign rapid fast decisions at any given moment. The cultural differences here have prepared me, I feel, for any random inconvenience in the workplace. Such a fast paced and stressful environment has taught me how to mold myself to be more flexible and respect the difficulties that many people here have to overcome (such as no internet).
Obviously, I learned a lot about microfinance as well. I learned, at least in my opinion, how much better it is than NGO. The saying is, they don't give handouts but rather a helping hand. Microfinance teaches solidarity, opens up communities, teaches responsibilities, and lays the ground work for future progress. Of course, it is not an answer for poverty. Not in the least bit. But it does help alleviate the troubles that poverty induces. I really hope that someday I can implement what I have learned here somewhere else and make a lasting impact.
Overall, I am glad to go home. I feel that three months was more than enough time for me to be here. I am looking forward to seeing family and friends. My family already agreed to be waiting for me in Boston with a pizza and a milkshake. I plan to watch a Red Sox game, catch a Pats game, eat some hamburgers, go to the movies, and enjoy the luxuries of running water, air conditioning, internet, medical insurance, and food (I lost 20 lbs here, and I already weighed only 155 when I got here). Needless to say, I will need a good 2 weeks rest before I return to school. I am appreciative for all the friends I made here, and for the great work that Esperanza is doing in this country. Well, that's it! I'M SHIPPING OFF TO BOSTON!!!!! The most beautiful city in the WORLD ;)

Monday, August 2, 2010

Dengue Fever Part 2

Hours later, however, I began feeling even worse. Again, the symptoms were very similar to Dengue. For 15 minutes I would be sweating immensely, the next 15 minutes I would be shivering. As I tried to eat some soup, I began sweating a river. It was if I had just come back from my daily jogs. I became scared and told my host mother that I wanted to go to the clinic. In somewhat of an argumentative manner, she told me not to worry that it was fever and not Dengue. Still, I wanted to make sure and explained to her that perhaps my body was not accustomed to the diseases here in the Dominican Republic. Apparently, I offended her. At that moment though, I could’ve cared less. My host brother walked me to the closest clinic, where things only became more confusing.
When I reached the clinic and after explaining to them the symptoms, they thought it would be best that I stayed the night. He left home to tell his mother, who called my boss, and both arrived to see me. At first, they were telling me that I shouldn’t stay because I would be fine, and that it would cost a lot of money. However, as I began to leave I became extremely nauseous and asked for a bucket. I puked up the soup that I had eaten earlier. After that, my boss suggested that I stay, that the nurses would take care of me. At that point, I was confused and didn’t know what I wanted or what I should do. Ultimately, they convinced me to stay. Of course, on the way to my room I puked some more.
When I finally rested my head on my new bed in the clinic, it was then that I realized that my boss called all my co-workers to tell them that I was sick. However, it wasn’t because she thought that they would be worried, but rather it was a reason for them to laugh at me. One of them even came to the clinic herself to make fun of me to my face. She kept saying, “Benjamin, you have Dengue and you’re going to die here.” It was a joke to the Dominicans that a poor American thought that he had contracted Dengue. So, for about an hour my host mother, boss, and co-worker joked amongst themselves at my expense, telling me that I’m going to die and will never see my country again. Obviously, though I knew by then that I didn’t have Dengue, I wasn’t very amused.
When they finished laughing at me, they left me to sleep in the clinic. I watched the Lord of the Rings to prevent the inevitable…trying to sleep. The nurse who told me that I could knock on her door for anything had fallen asleep herself (I was hoping she could give me some drugs). My body was still in lots of pain. I spent the next hour and a half rolling in my bed and making frequent trips to the bathroom. They woke me early up the next morning and stuck me with a bunch of needles for some tests. Finally, after six more hours of rolling around in my bed, the doctors concluded that all I had was a fever and sent me on my way…but with a hefty bill. 5,400 pesos or 142 American dollars! For one night. For a TV controller that barely worked. For tests that told me something I already knew. For a nurse that fell asleep earlier than I did. For a bunch of Dominicans to laugh at me. For a bag of IV that I’m pretty sure was just water. 142 American dollars. And no drugs.


Hato Mayor, Dominican Republic, Benjamin Brennan

Dengue Fever Part 1

Well, I really didn’t want to share this story with anybody else, but I ultimately decided that perhaps it would be best to express my slightly embarrassing experience with others. Some may find it funny; others may find it a little upsetting. Yet, that’s what blogs are for, to receive different perspectives. To begin, a couple of weeks ago I and along with the other interns here in the Dominican Republic received an email from the central office warning everybody about the sudden outbreak of Dengue Fever. Dengue fever is an illness that is contracted through mosquito bites. For 15 days, the individual is overcome with intense sweating, body ache, nausea, diarrhea, and a head ache. Needless to say, it is not a pleasurable experience.
I was out in the field about one hour away from the central office. As usual, we were visiting communities to receive the loans that were owed to us. During the second meeting, I started feeling an intense headache. It was an aggravating pressure as if it were applied by large pliers on my temples. I thought it was just because I was dehydrated, which is usually the case. Yet, after forcing down some food and drinking plenty of water, I began feeling worse. And yet, the worst was yet to come.
In the state of Hato Mayor, from tip to tip, the roads are horrendous. Potholes are ubiquitous, and many roads are not even paved. It makes long trips a nightmare because it feels as if you are on a boat lost at sea rocking back and forth. I get car sick easy enough on paved roads, so I always dread the long trips to other communities. As we were returning to the head office, I began feeling worse, and the car ride certainly did not make things better. For an hour, I felt as if my insides were let loose and rolling around inside my body, floating carelessly in the liquids of my body. You know that 8-ball toy that you shake around and ask it questions? Well, my inside felt like that. I could hear them slamming against my ribs, making similar sounds that the little triangle in the 8-ball makes when swished around violently.
When we finally arrived back at the office, I could barely see straight. I knew it was something serious, and asked to go home. I was so dizzy that I couldn’t even speak or understand Spanish. Eventually, I was able to demonstrate the fact that I was not feeling well and one of the drivers took me home.
At home I began feeling worse. I started to sweat buckets and my entire body ached. All I could think was that for the next 15 days my state would only worsen. On the news I heard of many stories of people dying from Dengue fever. I called all my friends to look up the symptoms of Dengue, and apparently I had every symptom. I went downstairs to tell my brother the situation. I spoke to him in English while he translated, since I could barely even think. My host mother said not to worry, that it was just a fever. She said that my host sister was feeling the same way the other day. I decided to calm my nerves and trust them.

Dengue Fever Part 1

Well, I really didn’t want to share this story with anybody else, but I ultimately decided that perhaps it would be best to express my slightly embarrassing experience with others. Some may find it funny; others may find it a little upsetting. Yet, that’s what blogs are for, to receive different perspectives. To begin, a couple of weeks ago I and along with the other interns here in the Dominican Republic received an email from the central office warning everybody about the sudden outbreak of Dengue Fever. Dengue fever is an illness that is contracted through mosquito bites. For 15 days, the individual is overcome with intense sweating, body ache, nausea, diarrhea, and a head ache. Needless to say, it is not a pleasurable experience.
I was out in the field about one hour away from the central office. As usual, we were visiting communities to receive the loans that were owed to us. During the second meeting, I started feeling an intense headache. It was an aggravating pressure as if it were applied by large pliers on my temples. I thought it was just because I was dehydrated, which is usually the case. Yet, after forcing down some food and drinking plenty of water, I began feeling worse. And yet, the worst was yet to come.
In the state of Hato Mayor, from tip to tip, the roads are horrendous. Potholes are ubiquitous, and many roads are not even paved. It makes long trips a nightmare because it feels as if you are on a boat lost at sea rocking back and forth. I get car sick easy enough on paved roads, so I always dread the long trips to other communities. As we were returning to the head office, I began feeling worse, and the car ride certainly did not make things better. For an hour, I felt as if my insides were let loose and rolling around inside my body, floating carelessly in the liquids of my body. You know that 8-ball toy that you shake around and ask it questions? Well, my inside felt like that. I could hear them slamming against my ribs, making similar sounds that the little triangle in the 8-ball makes when swished around violently.
When we finally arrived back at the office, I could barely see straight. I knew it was something serious, and asked to go home. I was so dizzy that I couldn’t even speak or understand Spanish. Eventually, I was able to demonstrate the fact that I was not feeling well and one of the drivers took me home.
At home I began feeling worse. I started to sweat buckets and my entire body ached. All I could think was that for the next 15 days my state would only worsen. On the news I heard of many stories of people dying from Dengue fever. I called all my friends to look up the symptoms of Dengue, and apparently I had every symptom. I went downstairs to tell my brother the situation. I spoke to him in English while he translated, since I could barely even think. My host mother said not to worry, that it was just a fever. She said that my host sister was feeling the same way the other day. I decided to calm my nerves and trust them.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Cockfight

There is an intriguing element of violence that captivates human interest. Many times it is idolized as a means to an end. In movies the hero is exalted for killing his enemies, the soldier is glorified for dying for his country, and stories of masked murders serve as fictitious instruments to both scare and entertain. In all parts of the world, violence is a temptation that purges the darkest secrets of our imagination, and sometimes reveals the malevolent side human nature. What is it that makes toying with death entertaining? I asked this question repeatedly after I watched my first cockfight here in the Dominican Republic.
First off, my experience was not what one would imagine. I was not surrounded by bloodthirsty, toothless, sun-burned farmers out in the bateys of the Dominican Republic. Rather, I was in an air-conditioned, high-class stadium surrounded by wealthy business men and beautiful waitresses carrying around food and drinks. There were electronic scoreboards, a bar/restaurant, and a green turf where the rooster fought.
I must say, the experience was not as brutal or bloody as I thought it would be. I think it was because roosters just claw and peck at each other, while a dog fight, for example, involves growling and fierce biting. Regardless, every fight was a fight to the death, and at the end of the round there had to be a loser. It was hard to watch a rooster suddenly fall to the ground without moving as the other stood triumphantly over its disposed foe. The men that bet for the winner cheered, while the rest sat down quickly with arms crossed.
It was interesting to watch a large amount of people yelling as two roosters fought to the death down below. It appeared that humans have an obsession with death. Whether we fear it through religion, honor it through burial, or crave it through a bellicose spectacle, death becomes a part of our lives because it is something inevitable. We all just have different ways of dealing with it.
After watching my first cockfight, I realized that life is similar. We ourselves fight with death, constantly struggling to enjoy life while working hard to sustain it. However, in the end, there always has to be a winner, and there always has to be a loser.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Tramite de Esperanza

I thought for this journal I'd give a little break down as to how Esperanza works, since I haven't yet in the past.

Basically, we got out far into the country to visit a poor community. We visit what we call "banks" or a group of people separated by smaller groups. Sometimes there may be 5, 10 or 15 people at the meeting, depending upon how well they expanded. Each group must have 5 people, no more no less. If the group does not, then they are not eligible to receive loans. Additionally, each bank has a "coordinator" or a person designated the leader of the other 4 people. That person is responsible for making sure everyone pays and arrives to all the meetings. As for the entire bank itself, there is also a treasurer and secretary, who have other responsibilities such as keeping track of who paid, and payments in the past.

Once we arrive, we have a brief prayer session where we sing songs about God. The members then recite their duties and responsibilities, followed by the actual payments. It is the coordinator who must give the money by hand to the "consultant" or the person working for Esperanza that receives the payments. We count the money, record it in each individuals booklet of accounts, and take attendance. This is suppose to take 45 minutes in total, but some meetings have gone as long as 3 hours. This is because people often do not have enough money, so we must order them to find a way to get it. Some people don't show up, and we have to send others to go find them or the money they owe.

At the end of the day, after visiting 2-3 communities, we recount the money and deposit it. We return to the office, record attendance and payments on a database, and note down any other observations. What I just described is only a tiny description of what goes on. There are countless obstacles that make life difficult for the consultant. Arguments, long trips, misinformation etc. all contribute to the daily trouble of being a consultant. Regardless, it can be a very rewarding experience.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Pictures



Luckily, a friend of mine took pics of me at the dentists last week. Thought I'd share them. Otherwise, it's blistering hot, countryside is beautiful, project is tiresome, only 1 month left.

Monday, July 12, 2010

Merengue

This past weekend was one of the few I got to actually rest a little. A new American has been placed here in Hato Mayor and it has been my job to take her around and make sure she knows how to carry herself. I was relieved to have another intern here, since it's not that fun to go out on my own alone. I brought to a pizza place Friday night. It was quite the experience.

I don't really stick out that much here in the DR, especially after having gotten some sun these past few months. I can walk around and people usually go about their daily business. Walking around with the new intern, I realized how intense it can be for a white american. The Dominican culture is very abrasive and aggressive, they are not afraid to say what is on their mind. It is common to hear "piropos" or cat calls, being shouted at beautiful women. ESPECIALLY American women. I had no idea how difficult it is here for a white American woman!!! For example, when I walked in the pizza place with my new intern friend (which I've done plenty of times without trouble), it was perhaps one of the most awkward situations I've been in. You know how in movies, when somebody who walks into a place where they clearly don't belong, the music makes that scratching sound, stops, and everybody turns around? Yaaaa, it was just like that. All eyes were on this poor young American girl, burning holes right through her. It was harmless though, as Dominicans love Americans. They just can't help but glare at a foreigner as if they were a movie star. Nevertheless, I thought it was hilarious and just soaked up the moment.

Saturday night, I hate to say, was the first night I went Merengue dancing. I wish it was the first thing I did when I got here!!!!! It was an absolute blast!!! Now, I had been on the Merengue dance team in college, and wasn't too sure how I would compare to the Dominicans. I'm proud to say that I was able to keep up with them. One girl I danced with said I was really good. Guess all those late night dance practices were worth it!!! It was sooooooo hot though!!! I was sweating so much, I thought I fell in a pool. The Dominicans, however, weren't sweating at all. They're pros I guess. I hope i get to go again soon.

Friday, July 9, 2010

Dentist for a day

The town finally got internet back a while ago, but the office doesn't. The past week has been a blur despite lack of communication with people back home. I have been working from 8-7 everyday, and each day has been filled to the brim. I have been doing research for my project which entails analyzing the differences between offices within the country and trying to find a way to standardize processes by improving client loads and recruitment. It's been a little hard gathering the information throughout the day and recording everything I see.

Last week I travelled to Puerto Plata, which has been by far the most beautiful place I've visited. It's almost colonial, almost Miami, almost Chile. It's hard to explain. The people there were so friendly, and enjoyed the company of Americans. They greeted us whenever we walked by. We even found this DELICIOUS panaderia where a man and his young son make terrific bread. It felt like a place Anthony Bourdain would go to and write about. The man was so kind, and very proud of his work, as he should be as it was very delicious.

I broke my camera and can no longer take any pictures. I am very upset about it, because now I am unable to capture the special moments of my travels, like what happened today.

Some dentists from the capital volunteered to offer their services for free to a poor community in Hato Mayor. I was invited to go along. As soon as I got to the small church, I was told to put some gloves on and help out. There were about 50 patients, sadly not all were able to receive treatment. Regardless, it was interesting to witness. People used tables, toilet paper as pillows, buckets and cups for rinsing, and plastic chairs for the operations. I helped out by holding flashlights in the patients mouth, squirting water between the teeth, holding down their tongue with that mirror thing, and holding tools. It was crazy!!! The people were so grateful. Many were in pain, but felt so relieved afterwards. Children were crying everywhere, which is expected. The dentist is a scary person! We worked in the hot church for about 6 hours. I had so much fun, and will never forget the smiles on the children and the people. The dentists were so happy to be there, as was I.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Apagones

It's been difficult getting online lately, as the rainstorms have caused a lot of "apagones," or blackouts. Sadly, these blackouts are always occurring throughout the country, making work and life a lot more difficult. As a forewarning, I do have no idea how often I will be able to write my blog from here on out, as the rainy season is about to get worse. Let's hope every now and then it lets up enough that I can access internet.
In relation to the apagones, it is a reflection of the political instability here in the Dominican Republic. It is 2010, and the country still suffers from blackouts, which should be only a minor concern for a country. And yet, the corruption, the constant bureauocratic reforms that impede any progress, and avarice for wealth make it difficult for the country to move forward. The saying here in the Dominican Republic, is that if a person ones to become a politician, they are only doing it for the money and not for the people. Hopefully, someday the country will find a way to combat corruption. It will not come from the politicians, however, but rather must come from the people themselves.


I received a question regarding the impact of the earthquake in Haiti and how it has affected the DR. It has not. It has affected the amount of immigrants from Haiti into the DR, however. Sadly, the Haitians are not well received and are treated like second-class citizens. More on that perhaps another time. I fear that I am about to lose internet again.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Caves/Waterfalls

This past weekend I went with some friends to 27 Charcos. It's a place located in the mountains where guides take you up and then you can jump from waterfalls. It was intense. Swimming against the strong current, scaling steep cliffs, falling from 30-40 feet! The first time I jumped I didn't think I was ever going to land. It was definitely the most exciting and thrilling thing I've ever done in my life.
Tomorrow, I'm off to Santo Domingo to discuss more about my project. So far, I have some input about how to improve the micro-lending process. I'm excited for the meeting because I will get some answers for the many questions I have, as well get some feedback about my ideas. As always, the office has been hectic and my days have been non-stop. I'm enjoying every minute of it.

Benjamin Brennan, Hato Mayor, Dominican Republic

Friday, June 18, 2010

Rough Day


I woke up early, rushing out of the house by 7 am without breakfast. My partner and I drove a half hour out into a community in the hills. While we were running our meeting, some teenagers slit our tires. By the time we finished the meeting the tire was completely destroyed. We had two other communities to visit and we were already late. The blazing Dominican sun was relentless as we changed the tire. Dressed in slack and a polo, I thought I was going to melt away. The people were very helpful though, as they helped us with the jack and filled air in the remaining tires. Finally, we were on our way again. We dropped off the blow-out tire at a repair shop.
We finished that meeting and went straight to another. It was about 11:30 by now and I was starving and thirsty. I was getting really dizzy. I felt like passing out. We waited for another hour for the group to get their money together. Always a difficult process. When we finished we went back and received the old tire. We exchanged tires again and went off to another group looking to join Esperanza. We explained to the group the responsibilities and expectations we had of them, and how the process work.
When we finished and walked out to the car, we realized that the tire burst again. At that moment, the rain started coming down hard. Better than the blazing sun I guess. For the third time that day, we had to change tires under the rain. It was about 3:30, and I still hadn't eaten breakfast or lunch. The rush, the hot sun, the strenuous activities, all had me in a really bad state. I had an incredible headache, I felt light as a feather, and I was so dizzy. I had trouble keeping my balance every time I stood up. Finally, on the way back home we ate something. I felt like a new man again. It was a stress-filled day, but I made it through.

Benjamin Brennan, Hato Mayor, Dominican Republic

Monday, June 14, 2010


It rains here every day in Hato Mayor. Clamoring thunder accompanies the rain that floods the streets and muddies the dirt roads. Women can be seen with trash bags over their heads so that their hair does not get wet. Straight hair is a luxury here, and both Dominicans and Haitians take pride in presenting themselves well. As we arrive in a small community outside Hat Mayor, I spot a child pushing a tire with a stick, laughing hysterically as the raindrops splatter against his high cheekbones.

Sitting under a tin roof, the rain pattering against the metal dripping off all sides, I am surrounded by a group of Haitians during a loan meeting. Today, the women must pay back the money they borrowed. Switching fluently between Creole and Spanish, they are arguing amongst each other. They do not have enough money to pay back the loan, and are in danger of losing their contract with Esperanza.

The rain has made many businesses very difficult to conduct productively. There are fewer customers outside, and the rain can sometimes ruin the clothes people are trying to sell. Therefore, the group is unable to reap any profits, let alone repay back the loan. The people are arguing furiously. Words are exchanged but nothing is resolved. We leave the impoverished community both discouraged and heartbroken. As much as we would like to help them, they did not hold up their end of the bargain. The chances of Esperanza giving them another loan remain very slim.

Despite the disappointment of today, I remain very positive. Microfinance has helped thousands ease the suffering of poverty. It is not, and never will become, solution to poverty but it propagates a sense of pride and honor for the people that participate. The Haitian community still has a chance to succeed, but the rainy season makes it very difficult. This experience has taught me that I need to take the good with the bad. Nevertheless, the pouring rain, and the grey clouds seemed to capture the emotions of that day.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

The Culture

The culture here is very different from that of the United States, obviously. Dominicans are very emotional people. It is common to be in the office and hear people screaming at the top of their lungs during an argument. Though some things they do may be considered inconsiderate in the United States (such as referring to you as they see you, calling you "fatty," "ugly," "skinny," "baldy,") I like to think that they mean well. They are not afraid to ask you personal questions. They enjoy making fun of others, even if that person is a stranger. They also exaggerate tremendously, making even the smallest thing a huge deal.
Despite their somewhat offensive way of expressing themselves, the appreciation they have for life and what little they have illuminates from their eyes. For more than a century the Dominican people have seen their country torn apart by dictator after dictator, most notably Trujillo and Belaguer. The atrocities committed against them by bellicose and ravenous leaders remains imbedded in their minds. Even the youth here is reminded of the days when life was cheap, when speaking your mind could cost you your life.
I find the Dominican people and their culture to be contradicting. They are both exaggerated and emotional, but at the same time humble and reserved. Their food is bland and tasteless, but their national dance (merengue/bachata) is exuberant and passionate. They laugh at other people´s expense but are too proud to laugh at themselves. The dictatorships they suffered, it appears, have insinuated a complex and crucial identity crisis. So many times in my travels I have noticed just how influential the past is for a country. The Dominican people know who they were, and who they are now, but are not sure about who they will become.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

First Week.

It's been a whole week since I first arrived in the Dominican Republic. I was assigned to a small town in the east of the Island called Hato Mayor. So far it has been a tremendous experience. I've been working closely with the communities surrounding the town, examining the process of microfinance. The people that receive their loans are extremely proud of what they have accomplished with their small yet profitable businesses. Their lives have changed so much. I am looking forward to an entire summer of working with people to better their lives.

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Posted By: Ben Brennan, Hato Mayor, Dominican Republic